Recently I crocheted a few shop samples for Atelier while simultaneously revising their shop pattern and I thought it would be nice to share here.
XL Crocheted Stash
Basket Pattern – written by Atelier Yarns 2015, Revised by Kimberlee
Fuller (March 2023)
If you want to stiffen the bag after it’s finished, use Beacon’s Stiffen Stuff spray, poster boards, inflated garbage bags or any hard,
round shape that you want your finished basket to assume. If you don’t stiffen your bag, it can easily
be flattened or folded for quick and easy storage.
Gauge: 8 sts over
4” in hdc.
Finished dimensions:
13.5” L x 13.5” W x 13.5” H, lying flat but it expands much wider once full.
Basic Crochet
Abbreviations and instructions:
st – stitch
How to make a slip
knot: 1. Pull at least 6” of yarn from your working yarn ball. If you make
your slip knot approximately 6” away from the tail end of the yarn, you’ll have
a long enough yarn tail to weave in later.
2. Make a loop, crossing the ball yarn over and on top of the tail
end. 3. Insert your hook into the center
of the loop, from front to back. 4. Use your hook to grab the ball-end yarn,
and pull it through the center of the loop.
5. Pull both ends of the yarn to tighten the loop around the hook. The
loop on your hook should be tight, but still loose enough to slide up and down
the hook. Make sure that you still have at least a 6” yarn tail that you can
weave in later. Your slip knot is now complete, and you are ready to start
crocheting. To begin making chain stitches, pinch the base of the slip knot
between your thumb and middle finger of your left hand and start your chain
(instructions below).
ch – chain: 1.
Make a slip knot on your hook. With the slip knot on your hook, grasp the knot
between the thumb and middle fingers of your left hand. The slip knot should
face you. The working yarn, the strand coming from the ball, should flow over
your index finger, between your index and middle finger and across your palm,
then to the back again between your ring and little finger. This may feel a
little awkward at first, but it will help you tension the yarn as you make
stitches and need more yarn from the ball.
Grasp your hook in your right hand using a pencil grip, knife grip, or
whatever feels most comfortable to you. To
start, keep your hook facing upward. You will be rotating it as you make chain
stitches, so grip the hook tight enough to maintain control but loose enough to
move easily. 2. Yarn over by looping the
working yarn over your hook from back to front using either your left hand to
wrap the yarn over the crochet hook from behind and then over the top, or by
using your right hand to manipulate your hook to do the same thing.
ss – slip stitch:
Insert hook into designated stitch. yo
(yarn over) and pull back through the st and through the loop on the hook.
sc – single
crochet: 1. Make a slip knot and ch the total of amount of chains for your
foundation chain/row (this pattern starts with just 2). 2. Locate the second ch
from your hook, insert your hook into the ch and yo (wrap the yarn over the
hook). You will never work in the first chain from the crochet hook unless a
pattern specifically directs you to do so.
3. Pull the yarn back through the st you just worked through and draw up
a loop on your hook. You now have 2 loops on your hook. 4. yo and pull the yarn back through both
loops on your hook. One single crochet stitch is now complete.
hdc – half double
crochet: 1. Make a slip knot and ch the total of amount of chains for your
foundation chain/row (this pattern starts with just 2). 2. Locate the second ch
from your hook. 3. yo, then insert your hook into the ch and yo again (wrap the
yarn over the hook). You will never work in the first chain from the crochet
hook unless a pattern specifically directs you to do so. 3. Pull the yarn back through the st you just
worked through and draw up a loop on your hook. You now have 3 loops on your
hook. 4. yo and pull the yarn back
through all 3 loops on your hook. One half double crochet stitch is now
complete.
Please note that these baskets are worked in concentric
rings. At the end of each round, we will
always join the last stitch to the marked first or second chain of the one or two
chains at the very start of the round (depending on which part of the pattern
you are working that round) with a slip stitch and then begin each new round
with a ch 1 or 2 which counts as the first st of the round.
Follow the instructions for the basket base below and end
after you’ve reached the desired diameter.
Basket Base:
Create a slip knot and chain 2.
Round 1: 8 sc into 2nd chain from hook.
Round 2: 2 hdc into each st.
Join with a ss into first hdc of round 16 sts.
Round 3: Ch2 (mark the second chain), 1 hdc in next st, *2
hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat from *. ss in marked second chain. (24 sts) You will always begin counting your total
stitch count after the marked st.
Round 4: Ch2 (mark the second chain), 1 hdc in next 2 sts,
*2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat from *. ss in marked second chain. (32 sts)
Round 5: Ch2 (mark the second chain), 1 hdc in next 3 sts,
*2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts* repeat from *. ss in marked second chain. (40 sts)
Round 6: Ch2 (mark the second chain), 1 hdc in next 4 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts* repeat from *. ss in marked second chain. (48 sts). Each round will continue to increase by 8 sts. Continue in this way, adding 1 st more between each cluster of 2 hdc in 1 st until the last row, the 10th row is: Ch2, (mark the second chain), 1 hdc in next 8 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 8 sts* repeat from *. ss in marked second chain. (80 sts)
Round 7: Ch2 (mark the second chain), 1 hdc in next 5 sts,
*2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts* repeat from *. ss in marked scond chain. (56 sts)
Round 8: Ch2 (mark the second chain), 1 hdc in next 6 sts,
*2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts* repeat from *. ss in marked scond chain. (64 sts)
Round 9: Ch2 (mark the second chain), 1 hdc in next 6 sts,
*2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts* repeat from *. ss in marked scond chain. (72 sts)
Round 10: Ch2 (mark the second chain), 1 hdc in next 6 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts* repeat from *. ss in marked scond chain. (80 sts)
Turning round for
the side wall:
Ch1 (mark this chain).
You will turn your work or begin working in the reverse direction. sc into the back loop ONLY; this is the back
ridge of each hdc all the way around. ss
into the marked chain.
Basket sides:
Round 1: Ch2 (mark second chain), work 1 hdc into each
st. ss into second chain.
Round 2: Ch1 (mark this chain), working into the back loops
only, sc into every st. ss into the
first chain.
Round 3: Same as round 1.
Round 4: Ch1 (mark this chain), work 1 sc into every
stitch. ss into the first chain.
These 4 rounds set the repeating side wall pattern for
basket. Repeat these 4 pattern rounds, 5
more times (20 rounds).
Handle Round 1: Work 17 sts in pattern, skip 5 sts and ch 6,
work 34 sts in pattern, skip 6 sts and ch 6.
Finish in the established pattern to the end of round. No stitch quantity change.
Handle Round 2: Work around in the established pattern,
working into the chain sts when you come to them. No stitch quantity change.
Work 2 more rounds in the established basket side
pattern. Break/tie off your yarn at the
end of the round and weave in your ends.
Joining new yarn:
When you need to join a new ball of yarn, when there is only 6-8” remaining of
your working yarn, tie the new yarn in a double knot to your ball of working
yarn. Continue working until your get to
the knot and then hold your working yarn and both tails (of the new and old
yarn) together and work over all three strands until the tails are “hidden” (or
woven in as you go).
Optional
Stiffening:
If you’d like to make your basket stiffer, you can place it over a hard form of roughly the same size. We recommend Beacon’s Stiffen Stuff spray starch, some poster boards and inflated garbage bags to create molds for your bags to fit on. Follow the instructions on the back of the bottle for your spray starch.
